by helios » Fri May 09, 2008 10:52 pm
re-produced from Edition 143 5th May 2008
Welcome to Sommeliers of Asia E-Newsletter Edition
My notes: this guy Chng is a v good wine writer cum sommerlier, did not manage to meet him directly in Wine for Asia'07; i do hope this year i can. below is his article, for this week, it is particularly interesting as he compares wine trade in China vs. India.
there is a vinexpo upcoming in hongkong on 28-march ... fyi.
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Here’s the paradox.
China is, and will remain, the considerably bigger market for wine than India even though their populations are very closed, about 1.2 and 1.1 billion respectively. (Collectively, that’s two-fifths of all human beings on earth).
The reasons are cultural and religious.
The Chinese have been comfortable with alcohol from a very early time of the civilisation. In mainland China, people consider eating and drinking – at the same time – as natural as life and death.
India, on the other hand, does not share the same attitude culturally nor religiously. Indeed, there are some right-wing Hindus who would prefer to see alcohol banned altogether.
This is not to say that India is not an important wine market. Just that short of a cultural upheaval, India is unlikely, if ever, to drink more wine than China. (In fact, India consumes less wine than Singapore which has a four million population, or Hong Kong which has around eight million). India does, however, soak up a plenty lot of whisky (consumed mostly by men before food. And after).
Till today, private enterprise is not allowed, in practically any corner of India, to open a wine shop. In China, you do what you like.
India, mind you, is the world’s largest democracy (whatever that means) and China is the world’s most populous communist state (however that’s defined).
Yet, India produces wine that is more proudly Indian than Chinese wine. Actually, it is a well-known fact that some Chinese producers have, for many years, been adding bulk wine from Chile to their so-called “Chinese†wine. So, the next time you uncork a Chinese Cabernet Sauvignon, you may be drinking more than you actually bargained for. A Chinese company even went so far as to register the vintage year as part of the trademark so that if can, legally, produce as much wine of the same “vintage†as it wishes. A Wall Street lawyer could learn a few new things here (I am writing this from a taxi in Beijing).
Last night, I tasted a well-made Indian sparkling and Sauvignon Blanc from perhaps India’s most proudly Indian winery, Sula Vineyard.
The beaming, mustachioed character on the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc label is immediately, and unmistakably, Indian. There’s no feigned effort to appear French. Even though the label of the sparkler does not carry the same mascot but the words “Methode Champenoisâ€, it still proudly, and loudly, announces “Sulaâ€.
SULA METHODE CHAMPENOISE XX
Pale straw. Small bubbles with some persistence.
Not very aromatic but there is a whiff of apples, soft citrus and light beewax. Light, dry, fresh and crisp.
SULA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 XX1/2
This is one of India’s best Sauvignon Blancs. Very pale, almost colourless.
The nose is of delicate green fruits, including citrus.
There is also a mineral aspect and a spring-onion spiciness.
Fresh, dry and perfect with deep-fried dim sums, tempura and pakoras.
Before I go, thought you might like to know that the new extension to the Beijing Airport is HUGE! And sprawling!
Although immigration was relatively smooth, because of its size, it took an extra 30 minutes to emerge from the world’s largest airport.
The sun, though, is out in Beijing and the sky almost blue.
Wishing you A Very Good Week Ahead.
CH’NG Poh Tiong
[Finance disclaimer: The content of this article is intended to provide a general guide to the subject matter. Specialist advice should be sought regarding investing of any stocks/ funds and/or whatsoever. The author has no vested interest in the mentioned stock at the time of writing.